I am celebrating my third wedding anniversary tonight, and my wife and I were talking over dinner about how wine has really brought us together. For both of us, wine has really become an important part of our lives, and food and wine together are so important to us. We are total foodies and as the palate for food becomes more sophisticated, our love for wine has matured. My wife, Flavia, was really not exposed to wine much when she lived in Brazil, where she is from. Her father drank a lot of Argentine wine, but she says that it was our first trip to Napa that really opened her eyes to wine. We spent a weekend in Calistoga, exploring some of the more out of the way wineries along the Silverado trail and highway 29. One winery in particular that dramatically opened her eyes was the Casa Nuestra winery on the Silverado Trail. The workers here took us through the fields, the barrel room, and really opened up Flavia’s eyes to the process that goes into making that bottle of wine, from the field all the way to the glass. She says that the romanticism of the family, the process, the work that makes this wine, made wine an experience, rather than a drink.
Wine has really opened up a new realm of conversation for us. It seems that when we go to a restaurant, the glass of wine in front of us usurps the day’s stress, the drama at work, the bad service, or whatever else we are encountering. We can trace back our first glass of Gewurztraminer, or first crisp Rose, and our best glass of sparkling wine that we’ve ever had. I still have some bottles from our first trip to Napa, a wonderful reminder of an experience that brought us closer and made us so happy.
The power of wine is often overlooked, but as appreciation grows between us, each glass seems to become more special, more memorable. Our great nights are measured by what we tasted, and our delicious meals are remembered for how they were paired. The discussion of wine is mysteriously sensual and powerful, something about the result of the process that makes it seem more valuable, more stimulating. I think its beautiful that each sip is different for us, the way the tannins feel, the fruit or spice we encounter first, and the choice of adjectives we use to describe each glass.
I look at some of my coworkers and see the relationship they and their partners have with wine. There seems to be this common theme of wine playing a prominent role in their relationships. Whether its one of the winemakers reveling in his recent romps through Bordeaux’s vineyards with his French girlfriend or my manager’s glee when she tells of past trips to Napa, there is just something special about wine in a relationship.
Wine of the week- 2003 Coteaux du Languedoc Dom Deshenry ($15)- This wine from the Languedoc is a bit confusing to research, as is most French wine. First off, this is a vin de pays (country wine), a title bestowed in 1979 and was originally meant for lower tier wines. It was one step above table wine, however, what it did was give less restriction to the grower and winemaker, allowing more creativity. They were allowed to free themselves from the grasps of formal AC’s, like minimum vine age, required varietals, low yields, and stict geographical restrictions. Another interesting advantage that these small DOC’s have is that they can print the varietal on the label, as long as it is 85% of that varietal. The Cotes de Thongue lies inland, just a few miles north of the Mediterranean Sea. The wine from this area is focused firmly on pure varietal wines, this one being Syrah.
Wednesday, July 30, 2008
Monday, July 28, 2008
Working for wine
I apologize for not writing yesterday, but this weekend was pretty crazy. Rosenblum had their quarterly Open House and as usual it meant a lot of wine for some, and a lot of work for others. My weekend was spent fulfilling wine orders for people that were too drunk to know whether or not they were getting the wine they paid for! It was a fun time though, good wine, food, and music, and although it was a weekend of work, I guess it could have been worse.
I was thinking about a Merlot that I had the other night. It was a Tuscan Aia Vecchio, a Merlot, and part of the “Bold Red” flight at a neighborhood restaurant. I was a bit hesitant about ordering this flight specifically because of this wine. I don’t like Merlot. That is a blanket statement, I’m sure if I looked hard enough to find one that appeased me I could, but this one went into the category of disappointing. It was soapy and flabby, fruit forward, but it didn’t have any “umph”. Merlot by nature is a fleshy and soft grape, perhaps even sensual, so serving it in a “bold red” flight may not work.
In general I find Merlot underwhelming, boring, and a little too old world for me. I would also lump Chardonnay and Pinotage into wines I don’t want to drink. I look at chard as flabby, low acid, and mouthfilling. Maybe it’s not that I won’t like it, I just think that there has to be a better selection on a wine list than a Chard. Pinotage I won’t touch, I feel like I can smell tires burning even before I open the bottle, although it would be rare for me to see a Pinotage on a tasting list in a restaurant.
The more you learn, the more you learn to find what you like. That being said, when you start trying enough wine, you create a disposition of a few wines, an aversion that will naturally lead you to select something you know you will like. Recently I learned the WSET tasting method, which seems to gear towards technical tasting rather than tasting with emotion. Through this method, the taster dissects the wine, part by part, appearance, nose, mouth, and finish. In a Merlot tasting, it allowed me to concentrate on the aspects of the wine, rather than the wine itself, good for a tasting, bad for accompanying my dinner!
I wanted to point one thing out about my wines of the week. If you want to find this wine for yourself, I would recommend visiting www.winesearcher.com. Through that website you can track the wine down to a local wineshop.
Wine of the week- 2003 Coteaux du Languedoc Dom Deshenry ($15)- This wine was a wonderful score the other night. I had it with fried pork belly and fried green olives ( I know, that sounds amazing) and it was heavenly. The wine is not fruit forward like I am used to with a Syrah, instead this was a spicy and earthy Syrah, almost like a huge Pinot Noir! The nose was pure earth, with wild mushrooms and leather, and on the palate was a mix of mint, orange zest, and white pepper. I ordered another glass with my lamb dinner, and the gaminess of the lamb matched well with it as well. This was one of those wines that my wife and I discussed at length, and I went home thinking about the wine, wishing I had another bottle! I am definitely becoming more interested in the Languedoc region as I taste more French wine, on Wednesday we will cover it a bit more.
I was thinking about a Merlot that I had the other night. It was a Tuscan Aia Vecchio, a Merlot, and part of the “Bold Red” flight at a neighborhood restaurant. I was a bit hesitant about ordering this flight specifically because of this wine. I don’t like Merlot. That is a blanket statement, I’m sure if I looked hard enough to find one that appeased me I could, but this one went into the category of disappointing. It was soapy and flabby, fruit forward, but it didn’t have any “umph”. Merlot by nature is a fleshy and soft grape, perhaps even sensual, so serving it in a “bold red” flight may not work.
In general I find Merlot underwhelming, boring, and a little too old world for me. I would also lump Chardonnay and Pinotage into wines I don’t want to drink. I look at chard as flabby, low acid, and mouthfilling. Maybe it’s not that I won’t like it, I just think that there has to be a better selection on a wine list than a Chard. Pinotage I won’t touch, I feel like I can smell tires burning even before I open the bottle, although it would be rare for me to see a Pinotage on a tasting list in a restaurant.
The more you learn, the more you learn to find what you like. That being said, when you start trying enough wine, you create a disposition of a few wines, an aversion that will naturally lead you to select something you know you will like. Recently I learned the WSET tasting method, which seems to gear towards technical tasting rather than tasting with emotion. Through this method, the taster dissects the wine, part by part, appearance, nose, mouth, and finish. In a Merlot tasting, it allowed me to concentrate on the aspects of the wine, rather than the wine itself, good for a tasting, bad for accompanying my dinner!
I wanted to point one thing out about my wines of the week. If you want to find this wine for yourself, I would recommend visiting www.winesearcher.com. Through that website you can track the wine down to a local wineshop.
Wine of the week- 2003 Coteaux du Languedoc Dom Deshenry ($15)- This wine was a wonderful score the other night. I had it with fried pork belly and fried green olives ( I know, that sounds amazing) and it was heavenly. The wine is not fruit forward like I am used to with a Syrah, instead this was a spicy and earthy Syrah, almost like a huge Pinot Noir! The nose was pure earth, with wild mushrooms and leather, and on the palate was a mix of mint, orange zest, and white pepper. I ordered another glass with my lamb dinner, and the gaminess of the lamb matched well with it as well. This was one of those wines that my wife and I discussed at length, and I went home thinking about the wine, wishing I had another bottle! I am definitely becoming more interested in the Languedoc region as I taste more French wine, on Wednesday we will cover it a bit more.
Friday, July 25, 2008
Blog it
The world of wine seems to be everywhere now. Do a Blog search on Google; there are thousands and thousands of wine Blogs. There are magazines, TV shows, and even a whole aisle dedicated to it in your local supermarket. Diageo reported that wine sales equaled beer sales in 2007, something unthinkable just a few years ago. It really is a true global market. It appeals to young (not too young) and old, rich and poor, happy and sad! There is more written about wine than any other beverage, and that’s just a simple demand issue.
The world of wine has really opened since Robert Parker. He was the one that saw the need for varietals on the labels, and the emerging American wine market saw this as an opportunity to jump into the business. It is intimidating to be at a fancy restaurant, looking at a 15 page wine list full of vineyards and years, but none of them say what the wine inside of the bottle is. That’s because you are supposed to know, or at least the “Old World” likes to think. Most people wouldn’t know what’s in a Chinon or even a Bordeaux if it isn’t specified on the back of the bottle or by the overdressed sommelier. If your dinner partner did know what it is you wonder what the hell you are doing out with that person in the first place! As the world of wine opens, and this mass of people enter the business, changes start to occur to make wine more accessible for everyone.
As I get deeper into the Diageo network, I get to see more and more everyday of the business aspect of wine. I see the hands reaching out, writing blogs, sending hundreds of cases of wine to writers, hoping to get that cameo bottle in CSI, or just finding new ways to market to certain demographics. The only limit to wine is access. Think about your neighborhood, how many wine shops are nearby? Has a wine bar opened in the past few years? Do you have friends who go wine tasting? There are so many different types of wine that there really is no end to the adventure. Even within Diageo, the California wineries would take months to really get through the whole portfolio.
I guess my point is that just by reading this you hopefully have learned a bit about wine. You must have had some interest in wine to read all the way through my Blog, so now go explore. Don’t be afraid if you don’t know how to pronounce the winery or you’ve never heard of a varietal. Take a risk, keep tasting, when you get home do a Google search about the wine and learn a bit about it. You have just increased your wine knowledge!
Wine of the Week- 2006 Rosenblum Cellars Chateau La Paws Cote du Bone Blanc ($12)- This is my favorite Rosenblum white and this delightfully light blend is perfect on a warm summer day. The blend of Chardonnay, Viognier, and Sauvignon Blanc combine to bring spice and fruit into a mouthful soft and supple wine. Clove and passion fruit dance on your tongue and a touch of honey smoothes the whole thing as you happily sip through your glass. A bit of oak sophisticates the wine but a nice chill brings it back down to earth. The price of this wine is set low enough to make this an “every fish dinner” type of wine. Get ready for more of this, as there will be more Rosenblum whites released in the near future.
The world of wine has really opened since Robert Parker. He was the one that saw the need for varietals on the labels, and the emerging American wine market saw this as an opportunity to jump into the business. It is intimidating to be at a fancy restaurant, looking at a 15 page wine list full of vineyards and years, but none of them say what the wine inside of the bottle is. That’s because you are supposed to know, or at least the “Old World” likes to think. Most people wouldn’t know what’s in a Chinon or even a Bordeaux if it isn’t specified on the back of the bottle or by the overdressed sommelier. If your dinner partner did know what it is you wonder what the hell you are doing out with that person in the first place! As the world of wine opens, and this mass of people enter the business, changes start to occur to make wine more accessible for everyone.
As I get deeper into the Diageo network, I get to see more and more everyday of the business aspect of wine. I see the hands reaching out, writing blogs, sending hundreds of cases of wine to writers, hoping to get that cameo bottle in CSI, or just finding new ways to market to certain demographics. The only limit to wine is access. Think about your neighborhood, how many wine shops are nearby? Has a wine bar opened in the past few years? Do you have friends who go wine tasting? There are so many different types of wine that there really is no end to the adventure. Even within Diageo, the California wineries would take months to really get through the whole portfolio.
I guess my point is that just by reading this you hopefully have learned a bit about wine. You must have had some interest in wine to read all the way through my Blog, so now go explore. Don’t be afraid if you don’t know how to pronounce the winery or you’ve never heard of a varietal. Take a risk, keep tasting, when you get home do a Google search about the wine and learn a bit about it. You have just increased your wine knowledge!
Wine of the Week- 2006 Rosenblum Cellars Chateau La Paws Cote du Bone Blanc ($12)- This is my favorite Rosenblum white and this delightfully light blend is perfect on a warm summer day. The blend of Chardonnay, Viognier, and Sauvignon Blanc combine to bring spice and fruit into a mouthful soft and supple wine. Clove and passion fruit dance on your tongue and a touch of honey smoothes the whole thing as you happily sip through your glass. A bit of oak sophisticates the wine but a nice chill brings it back down to earth. The price of this wine is set low enough to make this an “every fish dinner” type of wine. Get ready for more of this, as there will be more Rosenblum whites released in the near future.
Wednesday, July 23, 2008
A Nice Cellar
There are so many regions producing quality wine now that the choice of tonight’s beverage gets more difficult as every new vineyard opens. How do you know which wine to pick? What is your favorite country, favorite region, favorite appellation, vineyard, winery, varietal… this can go on forever! Wine offers a nearly infinite variety of choices, with only price and perhaps access as the only constraints. A favorite wine is something difficult to choose, like asking to pick a favorite song. A favorite wine or song can change depending on the mood, company, etc. A wine can be a “favorite”, but more importantly, finding the preferred wine is what is most important, and thus begins the importance of nice wine cellar, that beauty of choice under your roof.
Most people don’t have a basement, therefore finding a good corner in your home can be difficult. There are a few important rules to creating a space for a cellar or wine rack. It should not be in contact with direct light, especially sun light. It should have good humidity, a consistently cool temperature, and not subject to vibration (not on top of the fridge). Once you have a lot of wine stored up, consider purchasing some neckers to organize the wine and make that particular bottle you are looking for a bit easier to find. Learn about your cellar, know which wines you have, what their characteristics are, you have to know what you expect to find when you open it.
Picking a bottle for a dinner is always tough. Red or white is the first step. If I have guests, it’s always nice to throw a bottle of bubbles in the fridge, then pick out a wine to fit the main course. Some people prefer to open the expensive bottle later in the night, but after a bottle of bubbly, and then a bottle of “cheaper” wine, the expensive bottle could get lost. I like to open the nice bottle first. Pick a wine that you think will suit your guests, don’t choose a $100 Bordeaux or even a $50 Napa Cab if your friends don’t appreciate wine. For that pick a Syrah or a Malbec, something big and easy to drink. After that is gone, get a feel for your guests, what did they like and what do they prefer in a wine. Even if they don’t know much about wine, use their answers to narrow down the next selection. If it was too big, head for a Pinot Noir or a Sangiovese, test them, maybe change it up with something fun like Beaujolais or a Tempranillo. Having wine should be fun, be sure to keep the mood light, don’t take it too seriously, and maybe even learn a bit as you go.
Having a variety in the cellar is difficult. Try to buy what you think you won’t drink for a while. It’s even better if you can taste it first, get that idea in your head of when it will be good, that will also cut down on the curiosity and allow you to store it for longer. If you know that you cannot sit and watch that bottle for too long without opening it, buy two!
Wine of the Week- Rosenblum Cellars 2005 Atoosa Syrah ($35)- Continuing our Rosenblum 30th anniversary celebration this was the first release of this Vineyard Designate wine from Sonoma. I really enjoy Syrah, it’s a fun grape that’s big and bold, dark and tannic. The tannins are normally nice and soft from all of those sunny days but a few years could help wine to develop some of its more intense flavor characteristics. The Atoosa didn’t seem too happy to be opened and was a bit harsh at first. I mixed it around a bit and it relaxed and began to open. This fruit driven wine had an immediate nose of blueberry and strawberry jam. A bit of nutmeg and baking spices emerged along with some dill after a few more swirls, then the wine opened quickly to reveal soft tannins in the dark purple wine. A spicy finish and hints of oak make this wine well rounded and a great wine for a hearty meal.
Most people don’t have a basement, therefore finding a good corner in your home can be difficult. There are a few important rules to creating a space for a cellar or wine rack. It should not be in contact with direct light, especially sun light. It should have good humidity, a consistently cool temperature, and not subject to vibration (not on top of the fridge). Once you have a lot of wine stored up, consider purchasing some neckers to organize the wine and make that particular bottle you are looking for a bit easier to find. Learn about your cellar, know which wines you have, what their characteristics are, you have to know what you expect to find when you open it.
Picking a bottle for a dinner is always tough. Red or white is the first step. If I have guests, it’s always nice to throw a bottle of bubbles in the fridge, then pick out a wine to fit the main course. Some people prefer to open the expensive bottle later in the night, but after a bottle of bubbly, and then a bottle of “cheaper” wine, the expensive bottle could get lost. I like to open the nice bottle first. Pick a wine that you think will suit your guests, don’t choose a $100 Bordeaux or even a $50 Napa Cab if your friends don’t appreciate wine. For that pick a Syrah or a Malbec, something big and easy to drink. After that is gone, get a feel for your guests, what did they like and what do they prefer in a wine. Even if they don’t know much about wine, use their answers to narrow down the next selection. If it was too big, head for a Pinot Noir or a Sangiovese, test them, maybe change it up with something fun like Beaujolais or a Tempranillo. Having wine should be fun, be sure to keep the mood light, don’t take it too seriously, and maybe even learn a bit as you go.
Having a variety in the cellar is difficult. Try to buy what you think you won’t drink for a while. It’s even better if you can taste it first, get that idea in your head of when it will be good, that will also cut down on the curiosity and allow you to store it for longer. If you know that you cannot sit and watch that bottle for too long without opening it, buy two!
Wine of the Week- Rosenblum Cellars 2005 Atoosa Syrah ($35)- Continuing our Rosenblum 30th anniversary celebration this was the first release of this Vineyard Designate wine from Sonoma. I really enjoy Syrah, it’s a fun grape that’s big and bold, dark and tannic. The tannins are normally nice and soft from all of those sunny days but a few years could help wine to develop some of its more intense flavor characteristics. The Atoosa didn’t seem too happy to be opened and was a bit harsh at first. I mixed it around a bit and it relaxed and began to open. This fruit driven wine had an immediate nose of blueberry and strawberry jam. A bit of nutmeg and baking spices emerged along with some dill after a few more swirls, then the wine opened quickly to reveal soft tannins in the dark purple wine. A spicy finish and hints of oak make this wine well rounded and a great wine for a hearty meal.
Monday, July 21, 2008
The Wonderful world of Rose
I love Rose, and that’s just fine. I’m a man, I go to the gym, I do Muay Thai Kickboxing and Brazilian Jiu Jitsu, and I still like Rose. There’s nothing wrong with that, or is there? It turns out that Rose, even white wine, comes with the stigma of being sissy or girly. It ends up lumped into that “never at a fraternity house or tailgate party” along with malt beverages, woolen mittens, and vegetarians. To me, there is something perfect about a glass of Rose while sitting outside on a warm summer day. The way the glass clouds to the level of the beautiful shimmering pink (maybe light red is a more inviting word) beverage, the cool, crisp, slightly tannic, and fully enjoyable beverage makes Rose one of the true gifts of Baccus.
Rose can definitely vary depending on how you make it. I love a bit of RS (residual sugar) on the nose, but a bone dry rose will do as well. It can be made with any black grape, just limit the skin exposure, and press when the desired color is reached and there ya go. It can be fizzy, which is equally wonderful, flat, dry, or sweet. The secret to a good Rose is to make it resemble the way that it would have turned out if the maceration continued until it fermented to a red dry wine. Just that hint of Grenache, Carignon, or even Cabernet Franc allows the wine to develop the wonderful characteristics of the terroir while holding back just enough to make it very drinkable with white fish or light poultry or just a few friends and an ice bucket.
This brings me back to my original point, Rose is fine to drink if you are a man. I don’t know what it would take to break the connotation related to Roses, but there has to be a way to get people to at least taste it. It seems like the most natural progression would be to pair it with food, this way giving the nay-Rose crowd a reason to drink it, an excuse if you will. Another way would be to go out of your way to create an environment conducive to Rose, before your friends come over, take the beer out of the fridge. Make sure it’s nice and hot. Tell the crowd that the beer isn’t cold yet and the only cold drink is Rose. Better yet, propose a bubbly toast and pass out glasses of brut Rose.
Wine of the week- 2006 Rosenblum Cellars Monte Rosso Zinfandel ($45)- To mark Rosenblum’s 30th anniversary, I am going to select a different Rosenblum every night this week to celebrate the big 3-0. Monte Rosso epitomizes a well cared for wine made perfectly to express the big and bold flavors that make Rosenblum Famous. This is one of those vineyards whose grapes announce their arrival. All other projects are put on hold, the grapes are crushed immediately, dropped into clean macro-bins and placed in the cold room for a well deserved rest. Then two weeks of punch downs and skin contact present a final product that is a deep blackish purple, with wonderful scents that pour through the cellar.
Rose can definitely vary depending on how you make it. I love a bit of RS (residual sugar) on the nose, but a bone dry rose will do as well. It can be made with any black grape, just limit the skin exposure, and press when the desired color is reached and there ya go. It can be fizzy, which is equally wonderful, flat, dry, or sweet. The secret to a good Rose is to make it resemble the way that it would have turned out if the maceration continued until it fermented to a red dry wine. Just that hint of Grenache, Carignon, or even Cabernet Franc allows the wine to develop the wonderful characteristics of the terroir while holding back just enough to make it very drinkable with white fish or light poultry or just a few friends and an ice bucket.
This brings me back to my original point, Rose is fine to drink if you are a man. I don’t know what it would take to break the connotation related to Roses, but there has to be a way to get people to at least taste it. It seems like the most natural progression would be to pair it with food, this way giving the nay-Rose crowd a reason to drink it, an excuse if you will. Another way would be to go out of your way to create an environment conducive to Rose, before your friends come over, take the beer out of the fridge. Make sure it’s nice and hot. Tell the crowd that the beer isn’t cold yet and the only cold drink is Rose. Better yet, propose a bubbly toast and pass out glasses of brut Rose.
Wine of the week- 2006 Rosenblum Cellars Monte Rosso Zinfandel ($45)- To mark Rosenblum’s 30th anniversary, I am going to select a different Rosenblum every night this week to celebrate the big 3-0. Monte Rosso epitomizes a well cared for wine made perfectly to express the big and bold flavors that make Rosenblum Famous. This is one of those vineyards whose grapes announce their arrival. All other projects are put on hold, the grapes are crushed immediately, dropped into clean macro-bins and placed in the cold room for a well deserved rest. Then two weeks of punch downs and skin contact present a final product that is a deep blackish purple, with wonderful scents that pour through the cellar.
Sunday, July 20, 2008
An evening at Rosenblum Cellars
The 30th anniversary celebration is underway at Rosenblum Cellars. I have been there long enough to know how this family works. Kent and Kathy Rosenblum have come a long way from the basement of their house, to a run down bar in West Oakland, finally to a warehouse used to repair trains during WWI and WWII where they now house the winery. They are the kind of people that you can sit with and laugh, learn, and drink without ever thinking that they are your bosses. The whole family is so loving, the kids, the extended family, and their friends, that it has always been a true pleasure to work for them. Now, on their 30th anniversary they have finally decided to send their baby to college, packing her up and sending her to Diageo Chateau & Estates to really see what she can become. I know this transition has been difficult for Kent and Kathy, but not many people can turn a hobby into such a successful business.
On Friday night my wife and I had the pleasure of enjoying a catered meal at the winery. The food was supplied by The Girl and the Fig in Sonoma and paired with a selection of Rosenblum wines from some of their Sonoma Vineyards. The crowd was a collection of wine lovers, club members, and employees. The old warehouse looked beautiful, with black tablecloths over round tables, barrel staves and candles as a centerpiece, five wine glasses, and enough silverware to drive a dishwasher insane. The lights were low and tempered glass candleholders were placed on the barrel racks that lined the room. The vibe was very relaxed and as we sat one of the chefs came out to explain the first course, a seared scallop with beats and polenta which was paired with the 2006 Preston Ranch Marsanne. This is a typical Rosenblum white, big, bold, with pronounced ML. It had honey and pie crust on the note, with violets and cloves on the palate. It takes a big wine to pair with scallops. As I fin that the pungent taste can easily overwhelm a Sauvignon blanc of an unoaked Chard.
The second course, roasted suckling pig loaded with spices, was paired with a duo of big time Zinfandels. The 06 Maggie’s and the 06 Monte Rosso Zins are two of Rosenblums best known and they certainly played games with the pig, competing for dominance. The Maggie’s was very tannic with ripe strawberry, rhubarb, and mint on the palate. The Monte Rosso was the pick of the table and was bigger and jammier with blueberry, dark chocolate, cassis, and coffee.
The third course was a cheese plate paired with the 05 Kick Syrah. This was my favorite wine from 2005 and Wine Spectator gave it a 94. It was bold and dark, a beautiful purplish black with flavors of blueberry yogurt, smoked meat, and an herbaceous mouth feel. Finally the dessert, a peach trio served with the 05 Late Harvest Ripken Ranch Viognier. This is my favorite Rosenblum dessert wine, and it felt like honey and sweet flower were dancing on my tongue.
All in all the dinner was a wonderful time and as I sipped a glass of Fran’s Syrah, I remembered how lucky I am to work at a place as special as Rosenblum. I got a job at Rosenblum right out of college and spent the first few years in the production end of the company. Watching Kent, John Kane, and Tom Pitchon painstakingly taste through the assortment of vineyards and French barrels, I began to understand why the wine is so consistently good. They work to find the blend that is perfect to them, not what they think will sell best, because they want to produce the best wine, without consideration of cost of constraint. When I moved to the retail department I remember Kent calling me over to taste through some large volume barrels of Rockpile Zin. He asked my opinion and we tasted through Vosgue and Allier barrels, noting the slight differences. He didn’t have to include me in this, but he did because he respects his employees, and therefore every single one of them respects him. I remember coming in at five in the morning on a frigid Saturday morning just before Christmas and I heard something from the barrel room in the pitched black winery. I turned the corner and saw a light coming from one of the rows and I slowly crept down the hall where I saw Kent, tasting a few barrels before heading up to Tahoe for a day on the slopes. His work ethic and love of wine build Rosenblum to the level it is today and I hope that Diageo will continue with their commitment to improve Rosenblum.
WINE OF THE WEEK- 2006 A by Acacia Pinot Noir, Sonoma ($17)- Pinot Noir is one of the easiest wine to find a pairing recipe. The many characteristics of the wine allow it to pick a bit of almost any recipe. It’s a red that can pair as easily with salmon as it can with roast beef. The recipe that I chose is a chicken recipe that I picked up from my father in law in the tiny town of Itapejara d’Oeste in the southwest of Brazil. He is a champion griller, but this chicken marinade took the cake. The spice and lime from the recipe match with the acid and herbaceous characteristics of the wine. I adapted the recipe a bit and it can be used for chicken or pork. This nice light summer recipe is great for the grill.
Frango Agilberto (Agilberto’s Chicken)
3 tbsp olive oil
Large handful of cilantro leaves
3 green onions
4 cloves of garlic
¼ cup lime juice
black pepper
kosher sea salt
boneless chicken (either breasts or thighs)
Combine the first five ingredients in a blender and blend until smooth and runny. Clean the chicken and dry, then lightly dust the chicken with salt, pressing it into the poultry. Put in a Ziplock bag, pour the marinade over the chicken, seal and mix. Refrigerate for 2 hours or so. Grill the chicken high heat until thoroughly cooked. I prefer to serve this with rice with cilantro and lime.
On Friday night my wife and I had the pleasure of enjoying a catered meal at the winery. The food was supplied by The Girl and the Fig in Sonoma and paired with a selection of Rosenblum wines from some of their Sonoma Vineyards. The crowd was a collection of wine lovers, club members, and employees. The old warehouse looked beautiful, with black tablecloths over round tables, barrel staves and candles as a centerpiece, five wine glasses, and enough silverware to drive a dishwasher insane. The lights were low and tempered glass candleholders were placed on the barrel racks that lined the room. The vibe was very relaxed and as we sat one of the chefs came out to explain the first course, a seared scallop with beats and polenta which was paired with the 2006 Preston Ranch Marsanne. This is a typical Rosenblum white, big, bold, with pronounced ML. It had honey and pie crust on the note, with violets and cloves on the palate. It takes a big wine to pair with scallops. As I fin that the pungent taste can easily overwhelm a Sauvignon blanc of an unoaked Chard.
The second course, roasted suckling pig loaded with spices, was paired with a duo of big time Zinfandels. The 06 Maggie’s and the 06 Monte Rosso Zins are two of Rosenblums best known and they certainly played games with the pig, competing for dominance. The Maggie’s was very tannic with ripe strawberry, rhubarb, and mint on the palate. The Monte Rosso was the pick of the table and was bigger and jammier with blueberry, dark chocolate, cassis, and coffee.
The third course was a cheese plate paired with the 05 Kick Syrah. This was my favorite wine from 2005 and Wine Spectator gave it a 94. It was bold and dark, a beautiful purplish black with flavors of blueberry yogurt, smoked meat, and an herbaceous mouth feel. Finally the dessert, a peach trio served with the 05 Late Harvest Ripken Ranch Viognier. This is my favorite Rosenblum dessert wine, and it felt like honey and sweet flower were dancing on my tongue.
All in all the dinner was a wonderful time and as I sipped a glass of Fran’s Syrah, I remembered how lucky I am to work at a place as special as Rosenblum. I got a job at Rosenblum right out of college and spent the first few years in the production end of the company. Watching Kent, John Kane, and Tom Pitchon painstakingly taste through the assortment of vineyards and French barrels, I began to understand why the wine is so consistently good. They work to find the blend that is perfect to them, not what they think will sell best, because they want to produce the best wine, without consideration of cost of constraint. When I moved to the retail department I remember Kent calling me over to taste through some large volume barrels of Rockpile Zin. He asked my opinion and we tasted through Vosgue and Allier barrels, noting the slight differences. He didn’t have to include me in this, but he did because he respects his employees, and therefore every single one of them respects him. I remember coming in at five in the morning on a frigid Saturday morning just before Christmas and I heard something from the barrel room in the pitched black winery. I turned the corner and saw a light coming from one of the rows and I slowly crept down the hall where I saw Kent, tasting a few barrels before heading up to Tahoe for a day on the slopes. His work ethic and love of wine build Rosenblum to the level it is today and I hope that Diageo will continue with their commitment to improve Rosenblum.
WINE OF THE WEEK- 2006 A by Acacia Pinot Noir, Sonoma ($17)- Pinot Noir is one of the easiest wine to find a pairing recipe. The many characteristics of the wine allow it to pick a bit of almost any recipe. It’s a red that can pair as easily with salmon as it can with roast beef. The recipe that I chose is a chicken recipe that I picked up from my father in law in the tiny town of Itapejara d’Oeste in the southwest of Brazil. He is a champion griller, but this chicken marinade took the cake. The spice and lime from the recipe match with the acid and herbaceous characteristics of the wine. I adapted the recipe a bit and it can be used for chicken or pork. This nice light summer recipe is great for the grill.
Frango Agilberto (Agilberto’s Chicken)
3 tbsp olive oil
Large handful of cilantro leaves
3 green onions
4 cloves of garlic
¼ cup lime juice
black pepper
kosher sea salt
boneless chicken (either breasts or thighs)
Combine the first five ingredients in a blender and blend until smooth and runny. Clean the chicken and dry, then lightly dust the chicken with salt, pressing it into the poultry. Put in a Ziplock bag, pour the marinade over the chicken, seal and mix. Refrigerate for 2 hours or so. Grill the chicken high heat until thoroughly cooked. I prefer to serve this with rice with cilantro and lime.
Saturday, July 19, 2008
Walking the Fields
This week was a great opportunity to fill some of the small gaps that I’ve overlooked in the past about some viticulture and winemaking techniques. The two-day wine 101 course that I took at the Diageo Chateau & Estates headquarters also put a lot into perspective about the portfolio and the company that I now work for. I did a very interesting Cabernet tasting the second morning involving six wines of various brands. They were are 2005 but spread across the spectrum as far as origin and value. The stars of the show were the Provenance Oakville Cab and the Hewitt Rutherford Cab. Rutherford is known for it ‘s Cabernet and its “Dust” and George De Latour has been making fine cabs from there since the early 1900’s. Diageo owns, I believe, upwards of 30% of the land there, allowing their brands to produce a variety of great, although a bit pricey, cabs from that region. For the value ($15), I really liked the Dynamite Cab, it was a excitingly spicy cab with nice red fruit and good balance.
WINE OF THE WEEK- 2006 A by Acacia Pinot Noir, Sonoma ($17)- The afternoon session of our class was an exciting “field trip” to Acacia Vineyards. Acacia is located at the end of the North Bay and just off of Highway 12 and down the road from Domaine Carneros. It was warm, mid 80’s, with a constant breeze that whips off of the bay and cools the ground enough to keep the temperature down to grow the Chard and Pinot Noir that Acacia is famous for. The winery is located in the middle of Pinot and Chard vineyards, some Acacia, some BV, and some others. The small green Chardonnay grapes hung happily under foliage and some early verasion (color change) was occurring on random bunches. The winemaker, Matthew Glynn, walked with us and explained some of the viticulture techniques. Their vines are planed from East to West allowing max sun in the morning although the grape leaves provide a bit of shade from the scorching afternoon heat. One of the goals of Acacia is to be environmentally conscious and they attempt to use as little water as possible. Unlike some wineries, Acacia does use some machine harvesting because there are problems with late harvest heat and the fruit sometimes needs to be taken off the vine as quickly as possible. We tasted some Chard in the vineyard, I really enjoyed the 06 Winery Lake Chardonnay, grown just over the hill away from the bay, but kept cool by the nearby lake (hence the name). It was very clean and smoky, with hints of banana and a beautiful lingering aftertaste from the new French Oak barrels.
When the heat really started to beat down on us, we made our way to the winery, where we toured their facility, stopping at the crush pad (where the grapes first come) and then heading in to see their barrel room. All of their barrels are empty, SO2 gassed and waiting for the upcoming harvest. Their facility is incredibly clean, and the beautiful oak smell emanates from the predominantly French barrels. Matthew told us about their racking procedure for Chardonnay, including using nitrogen displacement instead of pumps. They do perform battonage (lees stirring) every two weeks to mix the dead yeast flavors through the wine.
We sat at tables set up under the press and Matthew started to passionately describe their Pinot. He has a perfect demeanor to produce Pinot, he is soft spoken but confident, and incredibly smart but selective with his speech to allow everyone to understand. I asked him why he chose Pinot, and he told of the difficulty of producing a wine that can draw an emotional response. “It’s not gonna knock you over the head”, he said. Surprisingly, Acacia performs native yeast fermentation, a method that is not used as often in wineries of that size. Native fermentation means that Acacia does not inoculate with foreign yeast. There is yeast on everything, our hands, the walls of a winery, and the skins of the grapes. After picking, the grapes are destemmed and set to cold soak for five days before turning the heat up and allowing the fermentation to proceed. Pinot has thin skins and low tannins, and the higher level of acid allows the wine to age, although 10 years is about the limit in California and Oregon. We tasted two Pinots at the winery. The 06 Acacia Lone Tree Estate was spicy and meaty, with bold blueberry mixing with mocha and rhubarb flavors. The 06 Carneros Pinot was delicate and composed with a floral and earthy nose of Rose and leather, and a mouthful of blackberry and cranberry.
Finally we finished up our class with some bubbly. I didn’t even know BV made bubbly! What made it even more exciting was that I had my first opportunity to saber a bottle. The teachers of the course brought a saber from the Rutherford House, and I will admit I was a bit nervous about messing this up. It was actually easier than I thought it would be. Hold the bottle at a 45-degree angle and find the bottle seam. Keep the fingers clear and run the saber up the seam at about medium speed and follow through. The top of the bottle will fly off, and then drink!
You can check out pictures from my visit HERE
WINE OF THE WEEK- 2006 A by Acacia Pinot Noir, Sonoma ($17)- The afternoon session of our class was an exciting “field trip” to Acacia Vineyards. Acacia is located at the end of the North Bay and just off of Highway 12 and down the road from Domaine Carneros. It was warm, mid 80’s, with a constant breeze that whips off of the bay and cools the ground enough to keep the temperature down to grow the Chard and Pinot Noir that Acacia is famous for. The winery is located in the middle of Pinot and Chard vineyards, some Acacia, some BV, and some others. The small green Chardonnay grapes hung happily under foliage and some early verasion (color change) was occurring on random bunches. The winemaker, Matthew Glynn, walked with us and explained some of the viticulture techniques. Their vines are planed from East to West allowing max sun in the morning although the grape leaves provide a bit of shade from the scorching afternoon heat. One of the goals of Acacia is to be environmentally conscious and they attempt to use as little water as possible. Unlike some wineries, Acacia does use some machine harvesting because there are problems with late harvest heat and the fruit sometimes needs to be taken off the vine as quickly as possible. We tasted some Chard in the vineyard, I really enjoyed the 06 Winery Lake Chardonnay, grown just over the hill away from the bay, but kept cool by the nearby lake (hence the name). It was very clean and smoky, with hints of banana and a beautiful lingering aftertaste from the new French Oak barrels.
When the heat really started to beat down on us, we made our way to the winery, where we toured their facility, stopping at the crush pad (where the grapes first come) and then heading in to see their barrel room. All of their barrels are empty, SO2 gassed and waiting for the upcoming harvest. Their facility is incredibly clean, and the beautiful oak smell emanates from the predominantly French barrels. Matthew told us about their racking procedure for Chardonnay, including using nitrogen displacement instead of pumps. They do perform battonage (lees stirring) every two weeks to mix the dead yeast flavors through the wine.
We sat at tables set up under the press and Matthew started to passionately describe their Pinot. He has a perfect demeanor to produce Pinot, he is soft spoken but confident, and incredibly smart but selective with his speech to allow everyone to understand. I asked him why he chose Pinot, and he told of the difficulty of producing a wine that can draw an emotional response. “It’s not gonna knock you over the head”, he said. Surprisingly, Acacia performs native yeast fermentation, a method that is not used as often in wineries of that size. Native fermentation means that Acacia does not inoculate with foreign yeast. There is yeast on everything, our hands, the walls of a winery, and the skins of the grapes. After picking, the grapes are destemmed and set to cold soak for five days before turning the heat up and allowing the fermentation to proceed. Pinot has thin skins and low tannins, and the higher level of acid allows the wine to age, although 10 years is about the limit in California and Oregon. We tasted two Pinots at the winery. The 06 Acacia Lone Tree Estate was spicy and meaty, with bold blueberry mixing with mocha and rhubarb flavors. The 06 Carneros Pinot was delicate and composed with a floral and earthy nose of Rose and leather, and a mouthful of blackberry and cranberry.
Finally we finished up our class with some bubbly. I didn’t even know BV made bubbly! What made it even more exciting was that I had my first opportunity to saber a bottle. The teachers of the course brought a saber from the Rutherford House, and I will admit I was a bit nervous about messing this up. It was actually easier than I thought it would be. Hold the bottle at a 45-degree angle and find the bottle seam. Keep the fingers clear and run the saber up the seam at about medium speed and follow through. The top of the bottle will fly off, and then drink!
You can check out pictures from my visit HERE
Wednesday, July 16, 2008
House Palate
I have been at Rosenblum Cellars long enough to have what we call a “House Palate”. My love for wine has really blossomed at Rosenblum and therefore the majority of the wine that I have drunk throughout the last few years has been mostly Rhone Varietals. The Zinfandels and Syrahs that Rosenblum is famous for are huge, fruit forward, jammy wines, with high alcohol content and bold flavors that leap out of the glass. They are also top quality, for example the 2003 Rockpile Zin was number 3 in Wine Spectators “Wines of the Year” issue. As Kent Rosenblum always says, “If we can’t sell it, we gotta drink it, so it better be good”! I guess in a sense I have been spoiled by this exposure to premium wine, and today I really noticed how my house palate affects my taste.
I am currently taking a two-day course put on by Rosenblum’s parent company Diageo Chateau and Estates. It’s a Wine 101 course, a bit basic for me, but it does provide some great opportunities to learn about the DC&E portfolio. I tasted a variety of wines from Sterling and BV, mostly their lower tier wines, as well as a few Sauvignon Blancs from New Zealand and California. The Merlots and Cabernets were… I don’t know exactly how to describe them. I guess I would have to say they were “Merlotie” or “Cabbie”. I mean they were perfect in their simplicity. They were examples of what that varietal should taste like without all of the frills and whistles of a wine that would cost $30 or more. The Sauvignon Blancs were good and the instructor couldn’t stop telling us about how much everyone is buying now.
My point is that these wines were not made for us to drink, they were made for us to sell, and that’s where my transition from family business to corporation is now. I understand the equation: make decent, even good wine for very little, keep it simple, market the hell out of it, brand recognition, be sure its in every store and airport bar, and it will sell. Next time you are at your liquor store, or even neighborhood supermarket, there is no way you will not see the big BV label smiling at you on a middle shelf or and the end of an isle. You know what you are getting, a great brand, making a decent wine, for a good price… a good wine to drink at a party. I don’t think I would ever buy this wine to have at home, but I guess this type of wine does not follow Kent’s motto. I guess the motto for this style of wine should be “Make this wine, so we can make money, and then we will have enough to afford the wine that we really want to drink”. The only wine that really struck me as something that I would buy was a 2006 Jade Mountain Mt. Veeder Viogner which was spicy and smoky and different. It was its uniqueness that stopped me, made me turn to my neighbor and start talking. This wine tested me, and that’s what I look for in a wine, something that is not normal, and something that challenges the grape, the winemaker and the winery to produce a product that is different than the rest.
WINE OF THE WEEK- 2006 A by Acacia Pinot Noir, Sonoma ($17). I am sure that we have all seen Sideways, a movie that really brought Pinot to recent light due to Myles’ obsession with the difficult grape. Pinot Noir is a wonderful grape, it really is such a clever grape, that there really is know what to know what you are getting if you approach a blind Pinot tasting. The beauty of Pinot Noir is in its delicateness, from vine to grape to wine. The vine is one of the hardest to maintain and the grape is stubborn, an early ripener that tests a grower patience to pick at the last possible moment when the flavors are at their premium and just before the grape begins to raisin. The winemaking process is just as testing, and the winemaker must be respectful of the grape while creating the wine.
Pinot is originally from the Burgundy region of France, but honestly I have never had a good Burgundy Pinot Noir, I’ve always been a bit nervous at what I would get. I do enjoy Central California Coast and Oregon Pinots because their cool climate and modern winemaking techniques really have pinpointed the way to produce a delicate, fruity, and spicy wine. I find that Pinot is often a wine that makes me think, that challenges me and allows me to further my knowledge and palate.
I am currently taking a two-day course put on by Rosenblum’s parent company Diageo Chateau and Estates. It’s a Wine 101 course, a bit basic for me, but it does provide some great opportunities to learn about the DC&E portfolio. I tasted a variety of wines from Sterling and BV, mostly their lower tier wines, as well as a few Sauvignon Blancs from New Zealand and California. The Merlots and Cabernets were… I don’t know exactly how to describe them. I guess I would have to say they were “Merlotie” or “Cabbie”. I mean they were perfect in their simplicity. They were examples of what that varietal should taste like without all of the frills and whistles of a wine that would cost $30 or more. The Sauvignon Blancs were good and the instructor couldn’t stop telling us about how much everyone is buying now.
My point is that these wines were not made for us to drink, they were made for us to sell, and that’s where my transition from family business to corporation is now. I understand the equation: make decent, even good wine for very little, keep it simple, market the hell out of it, brand recognition, be sure its in every store and airport bar, and it will sell. Next time you are at your liquor store, or even neighborhood supermarket, there is no way you will not see the big BV label smiling at you on a middle shelf or and the end of an isle. You know what you are getting, a great brand, making a decent wine, for a good price… a good wine to drink at a party. I don’t think I would ever buy this wine to have at home, but I guess this type of wine does not follow Kent’s motto. I guess the motto for this style of wine should be “Make this wine, so we can make money, and then we will have enough to afford the wine that we really want to drink”. The only wine that really struck me as something that I would buy was a 2006 Jade Mountain Mt. Veeder Viogner which was spicy and smoky and different. It was its uniqueness that stopped me, made me turn to my neighbor and start talking. This wine tested me, and that’s what I look for in a wine, something that is not normal, and something that challenges the grape, the winemaker and the winery to produce a product that is different than the rest.
WINE OF THE WEEK- 2006 A by Acacia Pinot Noir, Sonoma ($17). I am sure that we have all seen Sideways, a movie that really brought Pinot to recent light due to Myles’ obsession with the difficult grape. Pinot Noir is a wonderful grape, it really is such a clever grape, that there really is know what to know what you are getting if you approach a blind Pinot tasting. The beauty of Pinot Noir is in its delicateness, from vine to grape to wine. The vine is one of the hardest to maintain and the grape is stubborn, an early ripener that tests a grower patience to pick at the last possible moment when the flavors are at their premium and just before the grape begins to raisin. The winemaking process is just as testing, and the winemaker must be respectful of the grape while creating the wine.
Pinot is originally from the Burgundy region of France, but honestly I have never had a good Burgundy Pinot Noir, I’ve always been a bit nervous at what I would get. I do enjoy Central California Coast and Oregon Pinots because their cool climate and modern winemaking techniques really have pinpointed the way to produce a delicate, fruity, and spicy wine. I find that Pinot is often a wine that makes me think, that challenges me and allows me to further my knowledge and palate.
Monday, July 14, 2008
The Early Days
A love for wine is something that develops over time. That is to say, that something as complex as wine can begin as a crush, or simple infatuation, but the love of wine requires some knowledge and understanding of more than just the grape. For me, it really started when I was 15, traveling as some immature, unprepared tourist through Europe with other Americanized teenagers. On one stop along our tour, we wandered through the vineyards of St. Emilion and then had a tasting. The first taste was a bit bitter, I wasn’t prepared, I had nothing to compare it to. I didn’t particularly like it. I more enjoyed meeting the three generations that ran the vineyard, and seeing this history, the story in bottles, the rows and rows of dusty shelves that lined their cellar, filled with dark bottles dating back to the 19th century. I bought a 78 Chateau-Figeac St. Emilion from the touristy town center and lugged it back to the US. There was something captivating about what I had brought home, a living bottle of wine, history, and eventually once I drank it, a reminder of my past. But this was also a hint of the future, and when I began to work at Rosenblum Cellars, I knew that I had an opportunity to begin a love affair with the grape.
Working on a harvest crew with people from France, Australia, South Africa, and Argentina really opened up my eyes to the international importance of wine. Tasting wines from all over the world was like packing a suitcase. I could imagine the way the vineyards looked, how much work went in to that bottle that I was enjoying, and the sound of French echoing down a dank cellar. I dreamt about punchdowns and pump-overs, walked around with the smell of must and French heavy toasted oak and settled in at the end of the day with a fruit forward California Zinfandel. I realized that I was part of this history now, and when I would open a bottle of 2003 Rosenblum, that would be my story in that bottle, even the little I did (or didn’t do) would determine the final stance of that bottle.
While I traveled through South America, I tasted wine throughout the continent, from Mendoza to Tarija, Bolivia, and from Chile to Uruguay. My favorite town was Cafayate, in the Salta region of Northern Argentina. This desert oasis took me to beautiful little bodegas where grandma yelled for the son to get a new bottle. These families were the same as their cellar, a picture of their lives, a living, breathing book about the town, the family, and each individual member.
My love of wine is so much more than just the grape. I see how much goes into each bottle, the personality and the talent, and the need to make each bottle better, to make the story more interesting. The best part of all, is that the story will never end.
WINE OF THE WEEK- 2006 A by Acacia Pinot Noir, Sonoma ($17). Oh Pinot, you are such a good friend. Not to get “Sideways”, but Pinot Noir always seems to be right. Pinot is such a delicate grape, and coming from a winery that specializes in huge, jammy, Rhones, it took a while for me to understand the complexity of Pinot. The A by Acacia was very tight, and I had to get out the trusty Vinturi to get it to open up a bit. Once it was well beaten up, I got ripe black cherry and leather. A nice acid level brought out spicy oak, cedar, and a smooth blueberry aftertaste.
Working on a harvest crew with people from France, Australia, South Africa, and Argentina really opened up my eyes to the international importance of wine. Tasting wines from all over the world was like packing a suitcase. I could imagine the way the vineyards looked, how much work went in to that bottle that I was enjoying, and the sound of French echoing down a dank cellar. I dreamt about punchdowns and pump-overs, walked around with the smell of must and French heavy toasted oak and settled in at the end of the day with a fruit forward California Zinfandel. I realized that I was part of this history now, and when I would open a bottle of 2003 Rosenblum, that would be my story in that bottle, even the little I did (or didn’t do) would determine the final stance of that bottle.
While I traveled through South America, I tasted wine throughout the continent, from Mendoza to Tarija, Bolivia, and from Chile to Uruguay. My favorite town was Cafayate, in the Salta region of Northern Argentina. This desert oasis took me to beautiful little bodegas where grandma yelled for the son to get a new bottle. These families were the same as their cellar, a picture of their lives, a living, breathing book about the town, the family, and each individual member.
My love of wine is so much more than just the grape. I see how much goes into each bottle, the personality and the talent, and the need to make each bottle better, to make the story more interesting. The best part of all, is that the story will never end.
WINE OF THE WEEK- 2006 A by Acacia Pinot Noir, Sonoma ($17). Oh Pinot, you are such a good friend. Not to get “Sideways”, but Pinot Noir always seems to be right. Pinot is such a delicate grape, and coming from a winery that specializes in huge, jammy, Rhones, it took a while for me to understand the complexity of Pinot. The A by Acacia was very tight, and I had to get out the trusty Vinturi to get it to open up a bit. Once it was well beaten up, I got ripe black cherry and leather. A nice acid level brought out spicy oak, cedar, and a smooth blueberry aftertaste.
Sunday, July 13, 2008
Always Tasting
At my weekly tasting yesterday, I had the opportunity to explore some French AVAs that I was not familiar with. In fact one grape, Duras, had everyone stumped, but after a bit of reading I found that this varietal is included in almost all reds from the Gaillac region in the south of France. Every time I taste wine there is something new, probably even Jancis Robinson or Tom Stevenson still are able to discover when they open a bottle. In tasting wine it’s important to really focus on what you are looking for, dare I say “concentrate”.
When I get my first pour I always focus on the wine, swirl, swirl, swirl, then sniff. Try to name two fruits and any other aroma that jumps out, don’t be shy either, get your whole nose in the glass. If there is time, sniff four or five times, and swirl in between, really try to get that wine open before taking the first sip. Then I taste, I do the whole wine snob slurp, because unfortunately this does help to get the aromas to your nose and allow the wine to fully penetrate your palate. After your first sip, see if there is anything else that you missed or can redefine now that you have tasted it. Do you like it? Do your friends like it? Why? I have set a goal to begin writing about every wine that I taste, even if its just a few notes on a sticky, my memory is just not good enough to remember names, especially French or Italian.
So at my Saturday $1 tasting at the Wine Mine in Oakland, I always feel that I’ll be able to taste some decent wines and get an idea of what I’m looking for, it’s fun to find wine for under $20 that is worth drinking, or at least worth tasting. The tasting yesterday was a general tour of France; a lackluster Bordeaux, a simple but fun White Burgundy, the obscure Gaillac, a hot weather red from Cotes du Roussillon, and a crisp and dry Rose from Cote D’aix en Provence. This was a great opportunity to have wine from “well known” regions as well as some that are often overlooked from the wine world.
When I came home I was excited about these new wines and I immediately plopped down onto my couch with my “The World Atlas of Wine” and read up on these appellations that I had never heard of, next time, maybe I won’t appear so ignorant!
WINE OF THE WEEK: Allimant-Laugner Gewurztraminer 2005 Alsace ($18)- I looked to my friend Farley (www.behindthevines.com) for help with my pairing for the week. She knows a ton about pairing and she mentioned that she prefers Chinese with Gewurzt, especially broccoli with beef. “What a coincidence”, I yelped, “I was planning on cooking that tonight anyway”! I will be including a recipe every week that will go well with the wine of the week. All of these are my recipes or I will give credit to the source.
Broccoli with Beef: This dish should be spicy, to match wits with the spice in the Gewurzt, especially if it’s from Alsace. Oh yah: whites can go with red meat. (2 servings)
3 cloves garlic
1 tbsp sesame oil
1 tbsp rice vinegar
1.5 tbsp Hoisin sauce
3 tbsp soy sauce
3 tbsp white wine
1 tbsp cornstarch
Dash of hot red pepper
Dash of black pepper
1 lb beef (NY strip or lean Flank)
2 heads broccoli
1 small can bamboo shoots
1. Combine ingredients garlic through black pepper in a bowl and mix well. 2. Slice beef in thin strips about 3 inches long and add to bowl, mix well and put away in fridge for at least an hour. 3. Start rice in a separate pot and heat enough oil to cover bottom of wok and add beef, conserve a bit of liquid. 4. Add beef and cook for 5-6 minutes on med-high heat until meat is no longer red, chop broccoli into bite size pieces. 5. Add broccoli, bamboo shoots and remaining juice from the beef, mix well and turn down heat to med (still steaming) and cover for 5 minutes. 6. Cook until broccoli is soft but not wilting.
When I get my first pour I always focus on the wine, swirl, swirl, swirl, then sniff. Try to name two fruits and any other aroma that jumps out, don’t be shy either, get your whole nose in the glass. If there is time, sniff four or five times, and swirl in between, really try to get that wine open before taking the first sip. Then I taste, I do the whole wine snob slurp, because unfortunately this does help to get the aromas to your nose and allow the wine to fully penetrate your palate. After your first sip, see if there is anything else that you missed or can redefine now that you have tasted it. Do you like it? Do your friends like it? Why? I have set a goal to begin writing about every wine that I taste, even if its just a few notes on a sticky, my memory is just not good enough to remember names, especially French or Italian.
So at my Saturday $1 tasting at the Wine Mine in Oakland, I always feel that I’ll be able to taste some decent wines and get an idea of what I’m looking for, it’s fun to find wine for under $20 that is worth drinking, or at least worth tasting. The tasting yesterday was a general tour of France; a lackluster Bordeaux, a simple but fun White Burgundy, the obscure Gaillac, a hot weather red from Cotes du Roussillon, and a crisp and dry Rose from Cote D’aix en Provence. This was a great opportunity to have wine from “well known” regions as well as some that are often overlooked from the wine world.
When I came home I was excited about these new wines and I immediately plopped down onto my couch with my “The World Atlas of Wine” and read up on these appellations that I had never heard of, next time, maybe I won’t appear so ignorant!
WINE OF THE WEEK: Allimant-Laugner Gewurztraminer 2005 Alsace ($18)- I looked to my friend Farley (www.behindthevines.com) for help with my pairing for the week. She knows a ton about pairing and she mentioned that she prefers Chinese with Gewurzt, especially broccoli with beef. “What a coincidence”, I yelped, “I was planning on cooking that tonight anyway”! I will be including a recipe every week that will go well with the wine of the week. All of these are my recipes or I will give credit to the source.
Broccoli with Beef: This dish should be spicy, to match wits with the spice in the Gewurzt, especially if it’s from Alsace. Oh yah: whites can go with red meat. (2 servings)
3 cloves garlic
1 tbsp sesame oil
1 tbsp rice vinegar
1.5 tbsp Hoisin sauce
3 tbsp soy sauce
3 tbsp white wine
1 tbsp cornstarch
Dash of hot red pepper
Dash of black pepper
1 lb beef (NY strip or lean Flank)
2 heads broccoli
1 small can bamboo shoots
1. Combine ingredients garlic through black pepper in a bowl and mix well. 2. Slice beef in thin strips about 3 inches long and add to bowl, mix well and put away in fridge for at least an hour. 3. Start rice in a separate pot and heat enough oil to cover bottom of wok and add beef, conserve a bit of liquid. 4. Add beef and cook for 5-6 minutes on med-high heat until meat is no longer red, chop broccoli into bite size pieces. 5. Add broccoli, bamboo shoots and remaining juice from the beef, mix well and turn down heat to med (still steaming) and cover for 5 minutes. 6. Cook until broccoli is soft but not wilting.
Friday, July 11, 2008
Who wants to own a winery?
I do, who doesn’t? It seems like everyone from the Andretti’s to Maynard James Keenan (TOOL) is getting into the business. Can a name alone sell a wine, that is to say would you buy a wine because you are a “fan” of the owner? I bring this up because during my incredibly strenuous Friday at work I stumbled across TwentyFour (http://twentyfourwine.com), owned by everyone’s favorite ex-Raider cornerback Charles Woodson. As a diehard Raider fan I wonder if maybe those reoccurring turf toe injuries could have been prevented by perhaps paying a bit more attention to FOOTBALL during annual training camp in Napa, where he claims he first discovered the beauty of wine. Honestly, I saw the article about his wine and thought that I need a bottle of that! His first release, a Stags Leap, Napa Cab should be pretty nice, I just wonder how much he actually has to do with making the wine. He has enlisted the help of Gustavo Gonzalez, who is the red wine winemaker from Mondavi. Look for their winery opening in September and a release later that year.
What makes Joe Customer buy a bottle of wine? Could the name of the owner really sway a buyer? When I go to the store, I look for price, varietal, and region. At the same time, I do cherish my friendship with my local wine shop owner (David from the Wine Mine) and I always ask his opinion about a bottle. I do also look for scores, but sometimes I’m just not sure if Robert Parker really has the same taste as I do. The combination of this as well as the ridiculous variety of wine can make any visit to a wine shop either an adventure or a frustrating experience. I suggest going with an open mind and asking, don’t be afraid to ask directions, even if you know everything about wine, you don’t know as much as they do about their inventory. It is so easy to find a great bottle for cheap, so trust the owner, buy it, taste it, and if you like it, buy some more, if not, at least you were able to add that bottle to the mental wine library.
WINE OF THE WEEK: Allimant-Laugner Gewürztraminer 2005 Alsace ($18)- It seems a bit easy to pick a Gewurztraminer from Alsace instead of another region. I think Gewurzt in general does give you a great value, and Alsace is where the best Gewurztraminer is produced. Nestled in between the Vosgue mountains and the Rhine river, this region is tucked away in the Northeast of France. The history of this region has seen it change hands from France to Germany and back, and has also seen an influx of European migrants that has certainly shaped the viticulture tradition. This hot region is cut off from the Atlantic weather by the mountains, which also protect from rain. The vineyards are placed at a high altitude of 600-1200 feet allow for chilly nights. High sugar and early ripening have forced early picking and the resulting dilemma of whether to allow for a wine to be slightly sweet or have too much alcohol. Gewurzt here a notably more spicy than in other regions and tend to be a bit sweet.
The main varieties are Gewurztraminer, Muscat, Pinot Gris, and Riesling, and 90% of grapes grown here are for the production of white wine.
What makes Joe Customer buy a bottle of wine? Could the name of the owner really sway a buyer? When I go to the store, I look for price, varietal, and region. At the same time, I do cherish my friendship with my local wine shop owner (David from the Wine Mine) and I always ask his opinion about a bottle. I do also look for scores, but sometimes I’m just not sure if Robert Parker really has the same taste as I do. The combination of this as well as the ridiculous variety of wine can make any visit to a wine shop either an adventure or a frustrating experience. I suggest going with an open mind and asking, don’t be afraid to ask directions, even if you know everything about wine, you don’t know as much as they do about their inventory. It is so easy to find a great bottle for cheap, so trust the owner, buy it, taste it, and if you like it, buy some more, if not, at least you were able to add that bottle to the mental wine library.
WINE OF THE WEEK: Allimant-Laugner Gewürztraminer 2005 Alsace ($18)- It seems a bit easy to pick a Gewurztraminer from Alsace instead of another region. I think Gewurzt in general does give you a great value, and Alsace is where the best Gewurztraminer is produced. Nestled in between the Vosgue mountains and the Rhine river, this region is tucked away in the Northeast of France. The history of this region has seen it change hands from France to Germany and back, and has also seen an influx of European migrants that has certainly shaped the viticulture tradition. This hot region is cut off from the Atlantic weather by the mountains, which also protect from rain. The vineyards are placed at a high altitude of 600-1200 feet allow for chilly nights. High sugar and early ripening have forced early picking and the resulting dilemma of whether to allow for a wine to be slightly sweet or have too much alcohol. Gewurzt here a notably more spicy than in other regions and tend to be a bit sweet.
The main varieties are Gewurztraminer, Muscat, Pinot Gris, and Riesling, and 90% of grapes grown here are for the production of white wine.
Wednesday, July 9, 2008
What is a wine snob?
What is a wine snob? Is it in the knowledge, the vocabulary, the “pfffft” face when someone insists that a bottle of “2 Buck Chuck” is actually a good wine? Just because I choose to focus a lot of my mind and energy on finding great wine does that make me a wine snob? Are you a wine snob just for reading this? Wine is universal; these thin bands from 37 to 45-latitude north and south somehow quench the desire for all of the world’s drinkers, connoisseurs, and wine snobs alike. These are the only latitudes where terroir is available to produce a decent wine. We walk these bands like tight ropewalkers, learning, picking, and choosing where to pause and when to keep going.
But what makes someone a wine snob? If someone prefers Sierra Nevada over Natural Light, does that make them a beer snob? That is to say, is there anything in the “beverage world” as complex as wine? I can stare at my wine rack and imagine the taste of my 04 Cakebread Reserve Chard or wonder if I’ll ever get the nerve up to open the 92 Rosenblum Hendry Reserve Zin. Wine is this consuming enterprise, magic in a bottle, captivation by intoxication! What brings you back to wine? What makes someone spent $100, or $1000 or more on a bottle? Wine has what nothing else has to offer, it is a conversation stimulator, or sometimes the answer, but whatever it is to the drinker, it offers a mellow release from life.
WINE OF THE WEEK: Allimant-Laugner Gewürztraminer 2005 Alsace ($18)- Originally from the village of Tramin, Italy, this grape has found a more “noble” home in Alsace, in the North of France. This is a darker skinned white that demands some skin contact, therefore allowing it to be one of the few whites that is recognizable by sight, typically having the appearance of a touch of gold. For a “Noble Grape” Gewurzt is shunned by a lot of the wine community, perhaps because it is so difficult to spell! This is a difficult, early ripening grape, which demands cool conditions, therefore it has had difficulty finding good growing conditions outside of Alsace. New Zealand’s Grisborne appellation seems to be the most successful, although some regions of the US show promise as well. Monterey, Santa Barbara, Oregon and Washington all seem to suit the grape well.
The word Gewurztraminer means “Spice from Tramin”. That spice is sometimes difficult to recognize, a pinch on the toungue will normally reveal a bit of nutmeg or sandalwood. Typically, hints of lychee and rose, a hint of honey and a sweet smell, but dry taste are prominent in Gewurzt. This wine has low acid, but high sugar and alcohol content make this wine so much fun that it should always be opened at a backyard picnic or with a light appetizer.
But what makes someone a wine snob? If someone prefers Sierra Nevada over Natural Light, does that make them a beer snob? That is to say, is there anything in the “beverage world” as complex as wine? I can stare at my wine rack and imagine the taste of my 04 Cakebread Reserve Chard or wonder if I’ll ever get the nerve up to open the 92 Rosenblum Hendry Reserve Zin. Wine is this consuming enterprise, magic in a bottle, captivation by intoxication! What brings you back to wine? What makes someone spent $100, or $1000 or more on a bottle? Wine has what nothing else has to offer, it is a conversation stimulator, or sometimes the answer, but whatever it is to the drinker, it offers a mellow release from life.
WINE OF THE WEEK: Allimant-Laugner Gewürztraminer 2005 Alsace ($18)- Originally from the village of Tramin, Italy, this grape has found a more “noble” home in Alsace, in the North of France. This is a darker skinned white that demands some skin contact, therefore allowing it to be one of the few whites that is recognizable by sight, typically having the appearance of a touch of gold. For a “Noble Grape” Gewurzt is shunned by a lot of the wine community, perhaps because it is so difficult to spell! This is a difficult, early ripening grape, which demands cool conditions, therefore it has had difficulty finding good growing conditions outside of Alsace. New Zealand’s Grisborne appellation seems to be the most successful, although some regions of the US show promise as well. Monterey, Santa Barbara, Oregon and Washington all seem to suit the grape well.
The word Gewurztraminer means “Spice from Tramin”. That spice is sometimes difficult to recognize, a pinch on the toungue will normally reveal a bit of nutmeg or sandalwood. Typically, hints of lychee and rose, a hint of honey and a sweet smell, but dry taste are prominent in Gewurzt. This wine has low acid, but high sugar and alcohol content make this wine so much fun that it should always be opened at a backyard picnic or with a light appetizer.
Monday, July 7, 2008
Hi, this is me
So as I dive further into the world of wine, I want to keep my thoughts somewhere. My name is Jonathan, I live in Oakland, and I have been working at a winery (Rosenblum Cellars) for a few years now. I didn't always love wine, but now I do. I didn't know anything about wine, now I am starting to learn. I think I can write, well, at least I know I can tell stories, and putting words to "paper" is just copying the story I'm telling.
The point of this blog is to include you in my journey through learning about wine. My wife and I are currently studying to take the Society of Wine Educators exam, and am actively tasting as well as studying the regions of the world. The are so many varietals and such an assortment of good wine that I will never be able to taste it all, but the more I can learn the better. I have been inspired to write about wine. I have written a book and am working on selling it, with difficulty, but I know that I need to keep writing. So here goes, this blog will be a combination of a few things. I will try to cover what I am learning about wine, any great wines that I have tasted, as well as my life working in a family business that was just recently bought by a large corporation.
The story of wine is its own history, its own story, yet a parallel of history in the world. There is so much wine to drink, and each bottle, and each grape has a story. Just today I read about how the South African wine industry was destroyed during the UN embargo during apartheid. But the story was more than that, it was the original settlers who planted grapes to raisin for sailors to fight scurvy. There was also the need for wine for the Brits when they occupied South Africa and were not importing French wine. The more I learn about wine, the more the world opens.
At the same time, wine is my story. It's not the whole story, but instead highlights of the story. Remembering a great wine is often the same as remembering a great night, where I was, who I was with, why that bottle got opened, and what I ate with it. Every time I drink that wine, I am transporting myself back to that night.
WINE OF THE WEEK: Allimant-Laugner Gewürztraminer 2005 Alsace ($18)- I just got to know Gewurtzraminer last year during an amazing meal at Fleur de Lys in San Francisco. Gewurtz is a great wine for my sister-in-law, who doesn't like wine that much, but this wine is so much fun and a bit sweet, that it is easy drinking. It is also good for my wife and I, people who are picking out flavor characteristics, learning about regions, and such. It is complex in its simplicity, ie its simple to find the niches that make this wine beautiful, expressive, and enjoyable.
The Allimant-Laugner Gewürztraminer has some typical flavor characteristics. It has a touch of honey, with a mouthful of Lychee and spice. This had a bit of a gravely taste as well, a bit flinty but not overwhelming. It paired well with a seafood paella but was overtaken by my cold cucumber soup.
The point of this blog is to include you in my journey through learning about wine. My wife and I are currently studying to take the Society of Wine Educators exam, and am actively tasting as well as studying the regions of the world. The are so many varietals and such an assortment of good wine that I will never be able to taste it all, but the more I can learn the better. I have been inspired to write about wine. I have written a book and am working on selling it, with difficulty, but I know that I need to keep writing. So here goes, this blog will be a combination of a few things. I will try to cover what I am learning about wine, any great wines that I have tasted, as well as my life working in a family business that was just recently bought by a large corporation.
The story of wine is its own history, its own story, yet a parallel of history in the world. There is so much wine to drink, and each bottle, and each grape has a story. Just today I read about how the South African wine industry was destroyed during the UN embargo during apartheid. But the story was more than that, it was the original settlers who planted grapes to raisin for sailors to fight scurvy. There was also the need for wine for the Brits when they occupied South Africa and were not importing French wine. The more I learn about wine, the more the world opens.
At the same time, wine is my story. It's not the whole story, but instead highlights of the story. Remembering a great wine is often the same as remembering a great night, where I was, who I was with, why that bottle got opened, and what I ate with it. Every time I drink that wine, I am transporting myself back to that night.
WINE OF THE WEEK: Allimant-Laugner Gewürztraminer 2005 Alsace ($18)- I just got to know Gewurtzraminer last year during an amazing meal at Fleur de Lys in San Francisco. Gewurtz is a great wine for my sister-in-law, who doesn't like wine that much, but this wine is so much fun and a bit sweet, that it is easy drinking. It is also good for my wife and I, people who are picking out flavor characteristics, learning about regions, and such. It is complex in its simplicity, ie its simple to find the niches that make this wine beautiful, expressive, and enjoyable.
The Allimant-Laugner Gewürztraminer has some typical flavor characteristics. It has a touch of honey, with a mouthful of Lychee and spice. This had a bit of a gravely taste as well, a bit flinty but not overwhelming. It paired well with a seafood paella but was overtaken by my cold cucumber soup.
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